Planned Plumbing Changes

The domestic water system is in such poor condition that all of the lines and fittings will need to be replaced. The pressure pump and the expansion tank need to be replaced. Faucets and the shower may be replaced but that will be done when interior rennovation is done. Plumbing work that has been completed is described in the web page.

replacing and rerouting domestic water lines

All domestic water lines will be replaced. The lines will be supported and installed such that where possible they always run "uphill" from the tank. Quick connect fitting will be used on the output side of each pressure pump. When disconnected, water will run out of the vertical expansion tanks and out of the water heater, faucets, and shower.

On the port side is the water heater and one faucet which are in the cabinet adjactent to the water pump and expansion tank. Routing these water lines will be straightforward.

One the starboard side, the water line will likely be run in the storage area behind the starboard settee to the vanity area. This line will tee to cold faucet and to the water heater under the v-berth area and then the shower shower. The hot water line will tee and if possible run uphill to the sink and to the shower.

relocating domestic hot water heater

When the marine diesel was removed there was no reason to keep the domestic hot water heater behind the engine. Originally it was there so that excess heat from running the engine can be used for domestic hot water.

The previous water heater was a Force 10 406011 water heater which is no longer made. This is 6 gallon capacity 120VAC 1500W with front heat exchanger. The dimensions are 13½" high, 13¾" wide, and about 20" deep including adequate space for the pressure relief valve. This tank was removed.

water heater location

A Seaward water heater can be located on each side, port and starboard in the forward part of the storage space behind the settee back cushions. This would be a bit high and outboard but few other good spaces exist.

water heater conversion

Most or all of these water heaters seem to use the same 1" NPT form of heating element. Third party heating elements are available in 24V 600W and 48V 1000W. The thermostat should work but the overheat protection may be a thermal delayed shutoff, which limits the heater duty cycle with an empty tank. If so, the shutoff will rely on a specific current flow and will have to be matched to the heating element. A conversion to 24V 600W would solve the slow heating of the 12V unit or could be used to avoid using 120VAC. A call to Seaward or Isotherm may shed light on this.

reducing the number of through hull fittings

There is an excessive number of through hull fittings. Each drain currently has a through hull. Each need for raw water is accomodated with one or two separate through hulls, one to draw raw water in and for cooling needs a second to pump it out.

consolidate raw water through hulls

The existing engine raw water intake is large and will no longer be needed for the engine. This has an external course strainer and an internal medium strainer. Tees and one way valves can be used to accomodate multiple needs for raw water with lower flow requirements than the engine. This includes refrigeration, AC/heat, the galley foot pump, the head raw water, and the anchor locker washdown pump. The refrigeration and AC/heat also need to pump water out. These can be led to the existing engine exhaust outlet or another existing through hull.

consolidate drains to grey water tank

The black water tank (holding tank) has a dedicated through hull for offshore pumpout. This will have to remain dedicated solely for that use.

The sink drains, refrigeration drain, and shower pumpout all have separate through hulls. In no-discharge zones these are technically illegal but grey water discharge from small vessels is not yet enforced. These can be consolidated into small grey water tanks with automatic pumps. Those can pump into a larger grey water tank, preferably under the v-berth but aft if need be. This larger grey water tank can then be pumped into the black water tank if pumping out, or overboard where grey water pump out is allowed but not black water.

consider replacing head

The existing head is a West Marine Compact Manual Head Model 14974265. This is a low end manual head but not a budget model. A toilet with macerator would be nice but so far all of the available electric flush toilets found had a rear pump motor that extended the depth of the base to 10" to 16". Those with macerator tended to require the most depth. Only a 6" ledge is available with a steep slope back. Extending the base forward by 4" might be possible but with only an impellor waste removal pump rather than macerator. This would reduce space in the shower.

The head in the Mariner Yachts 36 is 18" wide and 13" tall. The head in the CP23 is an economy model in need of a rebuild and is 11" high. The space is 13½" high by 16" wide. Relocating the MY36 head to the CP23 would require changing the head location to where the existing water tank is on the starboard side. If a water tank is needed, two aft of the pilot bearths would be a better location.